Ice Mixed Rock Ice Guide

Workflow

1. 1

   Dry-Tool Placements

   ongoing

   Use dry-tool on rock features when ice absent — verify hold solidity.

   Climbing-Rope Declaration Reconciliation

   Show tips (2)
2. 2

   Transition Sections

   ongoing

   Manage crampon scratch on rock and tool swap between modes.

   NWS Wind Chill Index Record

   Show tips (2)
3. 3

   Protect Mixed

   ongoing

   Place cams on rock, screws in ice, pitons if necessary on alpine routes.

   Show tips (2)
4. 4

   Route Finding

   ongoing

   Read line choosing path of least brittle ice and best rock.

   Climbing Grade Source Reconciliation

   Show tips (2)

Tools Used

• Climbing-Rope Declaration Reconciliation
  Primary

  Calculate rack cam sizes from crack analysis.

• NWS Wind Chill Index Record
  Supporting

  Estimate screw count on ice sections percentage.

• Climbing Grade Source Reconciliation
  Primary

  Track tool wear on rock sections.

Reference Materials

• Dry Tool Limit

  Repeated dry tooling breaks picks — carry spare pick.

• Rope Drag

  Long mixed pitches need long slings — drag causes falls.

• Warning

  Stop immediately if safety conditions change or equipment fails.

Related Scenarios

• Ice First Top Rope Ice Guide
  Ice ClimbingBeginner2 tools
• Ice Lead Waterfall Pitch Guide
  Ice ClimbingAdvanced1 tool