Hand Jam Basics
2 weeksLearn thumb-up and thumb-down hand jams in parallel cracks with foot stacks and knee scums.
Intermediate2-4 months
Crack Climbing Technique Guide
Learn crack climbing technique from scratch with a clear step-by-step workflow, recommended tools, safety guidelines, and expert tips.
trad climbersjamming specialists
Workflow
Progress Size Techniques
1 monthAdd finger locks, ring locks, fist jams, and off-width techniques as crack size increases.
Foot Technique in Cracks
2 weeksPractice foot jams, outside edges in corners, and stemming where crack opens to chimney.
Link Technique on Routes
seasonApply crack skills on sustained crack pitches reading rest stances and gear placements.
Tools Used
Checklist
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Planning
Preparation
Safety
Execution
Quality
Documentation
Reference Materials
Crack SizesStandard
Finger < 1 in; hand 1–3 in; fist 3–4 in; off-width > 4 in — techniques differ each range.
Hand JamFormula
Thumb down for pulling moves; thumb up for reaching — both reduce hand pump.
Crack GradesTable
Famous crack grades for training.
| Route | Size | Grade |
|---|---|---|
| Generic hand | 2 in | 5.9 |
| Thin fingers | 0.5 in | 5.11 |
| Off-width | 5 in | 5.10 hard |
Hand Injury
Crack climbing abrasions and sprains common — know when to tape vs stop.
Stuck Cam
Walk cams out before loading wrong direction — stuck gear causes epics.
Chimney Falls
Wide cracks — fall awkwardly; protect frequently.
Safety Notes
- Helmet in cracks — head often contacts rock on wide moves.
- Inspect fixed anchors before trusting in remote areas.