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Advanced6-12 months

Trad Gear Placement Guide

Learn trad gear placement from scratch with a clear step-by-step workflow, recommended tools, safety guidelines, and expert tips.

trad apprenticesmountaineers

Workflow

  1. Learn Gear Types

    2 weeks

    Study active cam placement in parallel cracks and passive nut placement in constrictions with rock quality assessment.

  2. Mock Placements on Top Rope

    1 month

    Hang on top rope, place gear, weight test without committing — partner evaluates placements.

  3. Build Route-Appropriate Rack

    1 day

    Select cams and nuts for route crack size per guidebook; racking for efficient access on lead.

  4. Lead Single-Pitch Trad

    season

    Lead easy trad route placing own protection, managing rope, and building multi-piece anchors.

Checklist

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Planning

Preparation

Safety

Execution

Quality

Documentation

Reference Materials

Cam RangeStandard

Cam expansion range labeled on device — placement at 50–90% cam expansion ideal.

Nut LogicFormula

Nuts load in direction of anticipated pull — constrictions must be solid rock not flakes.

Rack BasicsTable

Starter single rack.

ItemQtyUse
Cams 0.3–31 eachCracks
Nuts set1Constrictions
Slings6Extend

  • Rock Quality

    Expanders in friable rock fail — when in doubt, downclimb or add redundancy.

  • Rack Weight

    Heavy rack on long approaches — fatigue causes mistakes.

  • Dropped Gear

    Helmet protects from partner-dropped hexes and cams.

Safety Notes

  • Double-check every trad placement before committing weight.
  • Never simul-climb on learning terrain without expert supervision.

Related Scenarios

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