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Advanced1-2 days per route

Multi Pitch Planning Guide

Learn multi pitch planning from scratch with a clear step-by-step workflow, recommended tools, safety guidelines, and expert tips.

multi-pitch leadersalpine climbers

Workflow

  1. Research Route and Descent

    2 hours

    Study guidebook pitch lengths, grades, rack recommendations, and critical descent beta before approach.

  2. Pack Rack and Systems

    1 hour

    Divide rack between partners, pack headlamps, extra layers, food, and communication plan for full day.

  3. Plan Pitch Strategy

    30 min

    Assign leads by pitch difficulty, agree swap leads or block leads, and set time turn-around.

  4. Execute with Descent Ready

    1 day

    Climb efficiently, build equalized anchors, and begin descent with margin before dark.

Checklist

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Planning

Preparation

Safety

Execution

Quality

Documentation

Reference Materials

Rope LengthStandard

60 m rope insufficient for many 35 m pitches with stretch — 70 m common for multi-pitch.

Turn-AroundFormula

Set hard turn-around time = expected finish + 2 hr safety margin before start.

Multi-Pitch GradesTable

Route planning benchmarks.

PitchesGradeHours
4–65.84–6
8–105.108–10
12+5.11Full day+

  • Benighted

    Headlamp mandatory on any multi-pitch — unexpected delays common.

  • Rappel Errors

    Most common cause of multi-pitch accidents — double-check anchor and rope retrieval.

  • Rockfall

    Helmets always; yell "rock" and cover neck when triggered.

Safety Notes

  • Start multi-pitch only with competent belayer and rescue skills.
  • Check weather forecast including afternoon lightning risk.

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Rock Climbing Advanced