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Advancedongoing training

Rescue Self Rescue Guide

Learn rescue self rescue from scratch with a clear step-by-step workflow, recommended tools, safety guidelines, and expert tips.

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Workflow

  1. Learn Rescue Systems

    2 days

    Practice ascending rope, passing knots, and hauling systems with prusik and mechanical ascenders.

    Break-Even Calculator

  2. Counterbalance and Pickoff

    1 day

    Simulate injured leader pickoff lowering climber to stance with counterbalance technique.

  3. Rappel Rescue Scenarios

    1 day

    Practice tandem rappel and rappelling with injured partner on extension slings.

  4. Refresh Drills Seasonally

    annual

    Rehearse rescue skills at start of each season — skills decay without practice.

Tools Used

Checklist

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Planning

Preparation

Safety

Execution

Quality

Documentation

Reference Materials

Haul MAStandard

3:1 haul with pulley; 5:1 with compound system — friction reduces ideal mechanical advantage.

Prusik SizeFormula

Prusik loop ≈ 1.5× rope diameter cord for 6–8 wraps grip.

Rescue KitTable

Minimal self-rescue carry.

ItemUseRequired
2 prusiksAscend/haulYes
AutoblockBelay backupYes
PulleyHaulOptional

  • Load Transfer

    Belay transfer errors drop climber — practice low with backup rope.

  • Edge Protection

    Rope over sharp edge during rescue cuts — pad edge.

  • Call for Help

    Self-rescue last resort — activate emergency services when available.

Safety Notes

  • Never practice rescue without ground backup or instructor.
  • Helmet mandatory during all rescue training — dropped gear common.

Related Scenarios

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